The splendor and opulence of the Mughal courts was at its peak during the 16th and 17th centuries. This has not been seen in more than a thousand years. It must be said that the Mughals also brought a revolution in the culinary art. The Mughal emperors influenced both the style and taste of Indian food. He turned simple Indian cooking into an art. Patronized this art with full enthusiasm. His hospitality is famous even today. The Mughal emperors after Babur took interest in the royal kitchen. Akbar was at the forefront in this. He appointed high ranking officers for kitchen administration.
French traveler Burmer says, when the Mughal emperor used to travel, his kitchen department along with his entire army accompanied him or had already reached the place before him. Mughals were very fond of food. Food was important to him. Therefore, whenever the emperor went somewhere, his kitchen was the first thing to be transferred.
‘Manucci, an Italian traveller, wrote, it was the custom of the court that at ten o’clock in the night before the departure of the emperor, the royal kitchen was sent to that place. So that it could be ensured that the royal breakfast would be ready by the time the emperor arrived the next morning.
Salma Hussain’s bookThe Emperor’s Table – The Art of Mughal Cuisine” The royal kitchen of the Mughal emperors and their eating habits has been described in detail.
How the royal kitchen was run?
The kitchen department was given 50 camels, which were used to carry the cooks, and 50 healthy cows were also used to provide milk. More than 200 porters carried ceramic utensils and other serving dishes. There were many mules to carry cooking utensils. Apart from this, they also had sufficient food items and delicious dishes with them. Every cook was expected to prepare one dish. Not only this, a military contingent along with water carriers, sweepers, leather workers and torch bearers used to guard the royal kitchen.
Written by Akbar’s courtier Abul Fazal “Ain-e-Akbari” Gives details of every aspect of Akbar’s rule. It has an entire chapter to give information on the royal kitchen. This chapter also contains a list of recipes for some dishes. Bernier has written how at that time the shops were filled with ghee, rice, wheat and innumerable utensils.
Mir Bakawal was the kitchen chief, commanding 600 horses.
Abul Fazal writes that the kitchen department was headed by Mir Bakawal, who had the post of kitchen chief. The post of kitchen chief was worth 600 horses. During the reign of Akbar, Hakim Hamam, the Prime Minister, was also allowed to keep an army of so many horses.
Under Mir Bakawal there were cooks, tasters, attendants, cooks and an army to carry the lavalashkar. Therefore, whenever the royal kitchen was transferred somewhere, an army of 600 horses also used to protect it.
The royal kitchen was staffed by eminent chefs coming from various regions of Persia, Afghanistan and India, who prepared daily meals keeping in mind the emperor’s temperament and the nutritional value of the food served.
Dishes were prepared with the advice of Hakim
Many recipes were given by Warial Hakim to treat indigestion, stomach ache, arouse sensual feelings and increase the vitality of the emperor. These remedies, having medicinal properties, sharpened the intellect, sharpened the eyes and enhanced the hearing power along with glowing skin. Cooks used to prepare their dishes according to the doctor’s prescriptions.
Which spices are used, lots of dry fruits
Handwritten descriptions of the royal kitchens of the Mughal emperors show that very few spices like cumin, coriander, ginger, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, fennel were used in cooking. To make the dishes fit for the royal table, a lot of dry fruits and raisins were used. Sugar and saffron along with lemon juice were used in almost every dish.
Almonds were used not only to thicken dishes, but also to enrich the taste and give strength to the mind and body.
Separate and big budget for kitchen
The royal kitchen had a separate accounting department. He looked after the daily expenses of the royal kitchen and released the money. At that time, Rs 1000 was given for the food expenses of the king.
Fragrant grass and food to animals for meat
Food items for the royal kitchen were also brought from abroad, such as fruits, ducks, water fowl and some vegetables from Kabul. Only river Ganga was used as water. Sheep, goats and chickens were kept in the kitchen store. To obtain pleasant smelling meat from the animals, they were given a special diet consisting of fragrant herbs, silver, gold, pearls, saffron marbles mixed with sugar, fragrant grass.
Apart from fragrant green grass, the cows were fed cotton seeds, sugarcane, nutmeg, coconut, cinnamon, pulses, pheasant eggs and bamboo leaves. They were never kept for less than a month. Rice came from Bhatni, Gwalior, Rajori and Nimlah.
Food was cooked in almond oil, fat from melted sheep’s tail, apricot oil and grape seed oil. Ghee was colored differently with saffron, spinach and turmeric. The food was flavored with rose water, musk and other aromatics.
which meat do emperors like
The Mughal emperors were non-vegetarian by nature. Hunting was also their way of life as it kept them fit and trained for war. Kings and rulers were expected to excel as warriors and hunters. Also display your strong sexual prowess with your numerous wives and mistresses.
Apart from sheep meat, game and birds, goat meat was the most favourite. Along with gold and silver, pearls and other precious stones were used in cooking according to their medicinal properties. To make the fish odorless, salt was added to it.
so that the meat does not smell
A paste was made of fresh lemon leaves, cardamom, cloves, lemon juice and salt and kept overnight. Then it was cooked very skillfully so that no bones were left. Similarly, birds of prey were killed and prepared for cooking. To remove bad smell, sandalwood paste was applied on them. Smoked, grilled and barbecued meat graced the tables of emperors. Hunting birds and animals were stuffed with rice, dry fruits and eggs to make a nutritious meal. Later this cooking style was given a sophisticated form.
The royal kitchen used to grow vegetables
A place was marked near the royal kitchen, where the vegetables favored by the emperor were grown with special care. The vegetable beds were watered with rose water and musk to create a special aroma.
