You must have heard about Kolhapuri slippers. Yes, the same chappal which originates from Kolhapur in Maharashtra and is famous in the entire country. This centuries old handicraft has now come under controversy. A few days ago, Italian luxury fashion brand Prada had signed an agreement with two government institutions of Maharashtra and Karnataka, in which it was said to make limited edition sandals inspired by Kolhapuri chappal.
But now the artisans of Maharashtra feel that the artisans of Karnataka will get more benefit from this deal. Kolhapuri slippers are our identity of Maharashtra, then why does the neighboring state benefit? This question was raised among everyone and the controversy increased.
What is Prada Made in India Project?
On December 10, 2025, Prada signed an MoU with Maharashtra’s LIDCOM (Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmkar Development Corporation Limited) and Karnataka’s LIDCAR (Dr. Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation Limited) at the Consulate General of Italy in Mumbai. Under this agreement, Prada is running a project named ‘Prada Made in India: Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals’. In the first lot, 2000 pairs of sandals will be made, the price of each pair will be around 800 Euro i.e. around Rs 84,000.
These sandals will be launched in 40 selected stores and online platforms of Prada in February 2026. The sandals will combine traditional Kolhapuri techniques with Prada’s modern designs and premium materials. This is a three-year project in which several million euros will be invested. Artisans will be given training, youth will get the opportunity to learn and also take short courses at Prada Academy in Italy. Both the organizations are the registered owners of the GI tag (Geographical Indication) of Kolhapuri Chappal, which was received in 2019.
Why did the dispute happen?
Artisans from Kolhapur, Sangli, Satara and Solapur of Maharashtra say that Kolhapuri slippers are our local craft, we have been making them here for centuries. Why should the artisans of Belagavi, Bagalkot, Dharwad and Bijapur of Karnataka benefit? Because of geographical proximity they copy but this is our art. Ashok Gaikwad, Chairman, Kolhapuri Chappal Cluster Private Limited, said, “We are happy that Lidcom’s deal with Prada will benefit Kolhapuri artisans. But why artisans of Karnataka? We understand the benefits of the GI tag but Kolhapuri chappal is a local art, people from other areas should not claim it just because of proximity.” They will talk to their association and take legal opinion on what to say on GI tag sharing. Bhupal Shete, director of Kolhapur Chappal Industrial Cluster, said, “The artisans are worried as to why our identity and brand should be shared? GI tag co-ownership is an old thing. How many artisans of Kolhapur will get work from this deal?” An official of Maharashtra’s Social Justice Department, on the condition of anonymity, said, “Focus on the benefits of the artisans of Kolhapur. The issue of Karnataka is old, look at the future so that Kolhapur gets international business.”
This controversy is not new. In June 2025, Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan showed tan leather sandals that resembled Kolhapuri chappals. There was an uproar on social media, people accused of cultural appropriation and said that there is a violation of GI tag. Prada sandals were priced at Rs 1.2 lakh but credit was not given to the original artisans. Prada said that it was just an inspiration, did not use the name and later came to India and met the artisans. Now this deal is the result of that. No specific statement came from Karnataka’s side, but Lidkar is also the owner of GI tag, so they might feel that everyone should get the benefit.
Union Commerce Minister Piyush Goyal said on December 11, 2025 that Prada is happy with the deal and exports of Kolhapuri slippers can reach $ 1 billion annually. He himself was born in Kolhapur and used to wear Kolhapuri slippers in his childhood. He said, “I always thought that Kolhapuri slippers could be exported to India worth $1 billion. Both sides should work together towards this.” Lidcom MD Prerna Pradeshtar said that this is an ethical partnership, Prada will work directly with the artisans and will give full credit. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, said, “This is a cultural exchange, each voice created not a product but a big initiative.” In the project, artisans will get fair compensation and youth will get a chance to learn.
Local crafts will get a boost
Lorenzo Bertelli has emphasized the goal of combining traditional Indian skills with Italian manufacturing techniques and highlighted the potential to increase demand and global attention for Indian artisan products.
Prada’s move to create sandals inspired by Kolhapuri chappal is a huge opportunity for our traditional Indian sandal making artisans as it will give recognition to their art across the world. Where earlier these artisans were limited to the local market, now their visibility will increase at the global level and by being associated with expensive brands, they will get the right price for their hard work. This whole initiative is setting a good example for big global brands to respect our local craftsmanship and cultural heritage. Prada had earlier damaged its image by getting caught in a design controversy when people said that it copied Kolhapuri slippers and did not give credit, but now by making this deal, they are reducing that loss and creating goodwill among the people.
